Västervik

I have found some information about climbing at Småland coast area in “Bergsport” nr. 191, 2024.The journal describes a bilingual (Swedish-English) guidebook for the area. The guidebook is called “Klättring vid Smålandskusten” (“Climbing on the Småland Coast”) by Andreas Andersson and can be bought at https://dangerzone.se. The guidebook is focused on Gamleby and Västervik areas but also includes crags around Åtvidaberg (Mörkedal and Solvik) and some crags around Kalmar.

The guidebook includes description of some new routes for the popular Gamleby and Västervik areas located roughly 250 km from Stockholm.

Newly developed crags in the area:

• Mörkedal. Mostly sport routes. In total, 44 routes graded from 3c to 7c+. Vertical wall located north from Åtvidaberg not far from Solvik and Målstena. The routes are crimpy and up to 15 meters long. A lot of routes from climbers who are stable at 6b-6c.

• Rådsklippan. Mostly sport routes. In total, 52 routes graded from 3c to 8a. One of the most popular crags outside Västervik. Easy to tuff overhang climbing.

• Kattbäcksberget. Mixed sport and trad routes. In total, 18 routes graded from 7c. Long pumpy routes that are more than 20 meters long. The crag in shadow which makes it good place to climb during warm summer days. Third par of the routes needs nuts for belaying.

• Korpmossen. Sport routes. In total, 28 routes graded from 5c to 8b. Parking is available near Lilla Flugen lake, also suitable for campers. There is a smaller wall with 6b-6c routes and an over 25 meters long wall with 7b-7c routes.

Bouldering guides for Västervik can be found here.